Ablang
08-31-2005, 09:06 PM
August 30th, 2005
Answer Line: Cut Your PC's Clatter
Contributing Editor Lincoln Spector
Today's systems make way too much noise. We spend good money on
high-quality speakers so that our CDs and MP3 files will sound
terrific, and then we force those speakers to share a room with a PC
that roars like a fully loaded B-52.
A quieter PC just generally makes your life nicer. Reducing your
computer's roar to something approaching a whisper is surprisingly
cheap and easy. You don't have to make it completely silent (which may
not be possible, anyway), just quiet enough for the ambient level of
your environment. This month I take a break from my initial reader
question to help you identify and replace the parts in your PC that
are making the most noise.
Noise vs. Heat
Your system's noisiest parts are its fans, and most PCs use a lot of
them. My test machine--a Pentium 4 clone--has four fans: in the power
supply, attached to the CPU, on the graphics board, and screwed onto
the back of the case. Initially, my PC sounded like a textile mill.
Of course, fans keep your system's delicate circuitry cool--an
important job. But with the right equipment, you can prevent PC
overheating and ditch the earmuffs; you'll have a computer that's
silent but cool, like Steve McQueen.
First, you could buy new fans. Slower fans make less noise, but they
don't push as much cooling air over the CPU and other internal
components. Bigger fans can safely turn more slowly because they move
more air per revolution--but a larger fan may not fit in your case.
Some more-expensive fans (in the neighborhood of $20 instead of $2) of
the same size and speed are designed specifically to be extra quiet.
Finally, you can reduce your dependence on fans by installing
efficient heat sinks on your CPU and elsewhere in your system.
To gauge your system's heat, use a program that monitors its internal
temperature. Your PC or motherboard may have come with such a program,
or the manufacturer may offer one as a free download. If your machine
doesn't have a built-in way to measure its temperature, try Alex van
Kaam's free Motherboard Monitor:
http://www.pcworld.com/downloads/file_description/0,fid,7309,tk,urx,00.asp
This program reports your PC's temperature and even sounds an alarm
when the internal heat reaches a preset danger level. Another option
is Podien's $15 CPUCool utility (a free trial version is available):
http://www.pcworld.com/downloads/file_description/0,fid,22842,tk,hsx,tk,urx,00.asp
Before you open your computer and start mucking around with its
innards, keep some safety tips in mind:
Unplug the power cord (at both ends) before opening your PC. For
anything other than installing drives, lay your PC on its side, with
the motherboard at the bottom. When you remove a part, loosen all of
the screws before you remove any of them. And when installing a
device, insert all of the screws halfway before fully tightening any.
When you're done, plug in the power cord and turn on your PC. If it
works, turn the system off, unplug the power cord, close the case, and
then plug in the power cord again.
Find the Noisemakers
Replacing every potentially noisy component in your PC is a waste of
time and money, so instead start with the loudest offender. If the
machine is still too noisy after you make your first change, replace
the next-noisiest component.
To identify the source of noise, use the ever-popular Cardboard Tube
Test. Hold one end of a cardboard tube from an empty paper towel roll
to your ear, and hold the other end near various drives, fans, and
other devices inside your PC's case to determine the loudest ones.
If this leaves you unsure, try the Elimination Test: Turn fans and
hard drives off and on to see which are the loudest. (There's no harm
in operating an open computer without fans for a few seconds.) To
silence a fan or hard drive (the one major noisemaker that isn't a
fan), unplug its power (make certain that the PC is unplugged first).
Fans are usually connected through tiny, three-hole plugs on the
motherboard; hard drives by larger, four-prong connectors from the
power supply. Plug the PC's power cord back in, turn it on, and listen
without using the cardboard tube.
Of course, this technique won't work with the power supply's fan,
which can't be unplugged. With your PC turned off but plugged in,
insert a small wooden stick between the fan's blades, and hold it
there while you turn the PC on. If the machine remains as quiet as a
weeknight in Yuba City, you've found your peace-disturber.
Your power supply may well be the first noise source you'll want to
replace, since its fan is often the loudest thing in the case. Look
for a replacement power supply that provides at least as much wattage
as your current one. Note, though, that while a supply that delivers
more watts gives you power to upgrade your PC's equipment, it also
costs more and might be noisier than a less-powerful model.
In my test PC, I tried Seasonic's 330-watt S12-330 power supply, which
costs about $60 online:
http://pcworld.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php/masterid=8735524/tk=urx
The S12-330's 120mm fan spins more slowly and quietly than the 80mm
fans found in most power supplies. The product even provides an
adapter that lets you lower the speed of your system's case and CPU
fans.
If the Seasonic isn't quiet enough for you, try Antec's 500-watt
Phantom 500 it is absolutely silent--most of the time. The device is
also very big, very heavy, and (at about $160 online) very expensive:
http://pcworld.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php?masterid=8760870/tk=urx
The Phantom's body acts as a heat sink to keep the box's interior
cool, and the fan kicks in only when the heat rises above a
user-defined level. Still, for many people complete quiet most of the
time is worse than slightly noisy performance all of the time. It is
much easier to ignore a constant noise than one that turns off and on
at seemingly random times.
Installing a new power supply is easy: Unplug the motherboard and
drives from the existing power supply, unscrew and remove the device,
insert the new power supply, tighten its holding screws, and then plug
everything back into it. Seasonic and Antec include installation
instructions, but not all power-supply vendors do.
If your PC has a case fan--one screwed onto the case rather than
attached to the CPU, power supply, or other device--you may want to
replace it with a less-noisy model. My test PC's 92mm case fan was its
loudest component. The best solution would be to swap in a bigger fan,
but that's tricky. Your case probably doesn't have a hole for a 120mm
fan. Still, using a higher-quality (and perhaps slower) fan should
reduce your system's noise level.
Nexus makes quiet case fans in various sizes, each of them priced
below $20. The fans lack installation instructions, but replacing a
fan is simple: Just unplug the old fan's power cord, remove it, and
then install and plug in the replacement.
Nexus's 92mm Real Silent case fan worked fine in my test system:
http://www.nexustek.nl/92mmcasefan.htm
I was a little worried because, according to my motherboard-specific
monitoring program, it spins at about half the rate of my old fan. But
the slower turning speed has not caused the PC's temperature to rise.
Most hard drives don't have fans, but they still make plenty of noise
when they spin. However, many new models make less noise, as they use
fluid dynamic bearings in place of ball bearings. So if you want a
quieter PC environment, now may be a good time to upgrade your hard
drive.
A Hard-Drive Muffler
Alternatively, you could place your current drive in a soundproof box
that fits in a 5.25-inch bay (the kind you'd normally use for a CD or
DVD drive). I recommend the Nexus Drive-A-Way, which costs about $60
(I looked at an early production unit before the company had settled
on a price):
http://www.nexustek.nl/driveaway.htm
I installed the Drive-A-Way with only minor problems--and before I
discovered the instructions hidden on the bottom of the box. The
device silenced my drive almost completely.
The most cost-effective CPU coolers are a small heat sink and a cheap,
loud fan. For a little more money, you can buy something less raucous.
But be warned: Replacing a CPU cooler isn't easy.
Part of the problem is sheer size: Quiet CPU coolers can be huge, with
towering heat sinks that look like model skyscrapers attached to fans
the size of portable disc players. You have to make sure the new
cooler will fit your motherboard and CPU socket. You may know what
processor you have, but some CPUs support more than one socket type.
Check your computer or motherboard documentation--or the
manufacturer's Web site--for the information you'll need.
Once you find the right cooler, you have to attach it. Start by
removing the old cooler. It's probably clipped onto the socket in ways
you can't see and in places where your fingers barely fit. Next, wipe
the thermal paste (also called thermal grease) off the top of the CPU.
Now apply a thin layer of paste (your cooler probably comes with a
tube of the stuff). Finally, insert the new cooler into those clips
your fingers can barely reach. Easy, right?
For Socket 478 motherboards, I recommend Arctic Cooling's reasonably
compact Freezer 4:
http://www.arctic-cooling.com/cpu2.php?idx=9&disc=
Though the device is not as quiet as some of the giant alternatives,
it's more likely to fit in your PC, and it costs only about $30
online. (Arctic Cooling sells similar coolers for other sockets.)
If changing your PC's CPU cooler sounds too daunting, don't even
consider replacing the tiny fan that's probably attached to your
graphics card. Such fans aren't particularly loud, and fiddling with
the surface of a graphics card is perilous.
I also advise against hassling with case insulation. The foam-rubber
material attaches to the inside of your case to muffle sound, but this
chore is a lot of work for a very minor difference.
For more tips, plus component reviews, visit PC World's Upgrade
Center:
http://www.pcworld.com/resource/infocenter/0,ctrid,9,ic,UpgradeCenter,tk,urx,00.asp
* Keep Your Backup Drive Off When It's Not in Use *
External hard drives make great backups: They're much easier to work
with than DVDs, and they hold far more data. You may be tempted to
leave these drives on continuously; but if you do, anything that
damages your original files could also destroy the backup. For better
protection--regardless of the backup program you use--keep the backup
drive turned off or unplugged when you're not using it, and turn it on
or plug it in only when you need to back up. Better yet, hide the
drive when you unplug it. That way, burglars won't deprive you of your
PC and your backup drive.
Send your tips and questions to:
answer*pcworld.com
Read Lincoln Spector's regularly published "Answer Line" columns:
http://www.pcworld.com/resource/columnist/0,colid,1,tk,ur,00.asp
===
"In a world where more than 10 million americans live with cancer -- we believe unity is strength, knowledge is power, and attitude is everything!"
-- Livestrong, by Lance Armstrong
Answer Line: Cut Your PC's Clatter
Contributing Editor Lincoln Spector
Today's systems make way too much noise. We spend good money on
high-quality speakers so that our CDs and MP3 files will sound
terrific, and then we force those speakers to share a room with a PC
that roars like a fully loaded B-52.
A quieter PC just generally makes your life nicer. Reducing your
computer's roar to something approaching a whisper is surprisingly
cheap and easy. You don't have to make it completely silent (which may
not be possible, anyway), just quiet enough for the ambient level of
your environment. This month I take a break from my initial reader
question to help you identify and replace the parts in your PC that
are making the most noise.
Noise vs. Heat
Your system's noisiest parts are its fans, and most PCs use a lot of
them. My test machine--a Pentium 4 clone--has four fans: in the power
supply, attached to the CPU, on the graphics board, and screwed onto
the back of the case. Initially, my PC sounded like a textile mill.
Of course, fans keep your system's delicate circuitry cool--an
important job. But with the right equipment, you can prevent PC
overheating and ditch the earmuffs; you'll have a computer that's
silent but cool, like Steve McQueen.
First, you could buy new fans. Slower fans make less noise, but they
don't push as much cooling air over the CPU and other internal
components. Bigger fans can safely turn more slowly because they move
more air per revolution--but a larger fan may not fit in your case.
Some more-expensive fans (in the neighborhood of $20 instead of $2) of
the same size and speed are designed specifically to be extra quiet.
Finally, you can reduce your dependence on fans by installing
efficient heat sinks on your CPU and elsewhere in your system.
To gauge your system's heat, use a program that monitors its internal
temperature. Your PC or motherboard may have come with such a program,
or the manufacturer may offer one as a free download. If your machine
doesn't have a built-in way to measure its temperature, try Alex van
Kaam's free Motherboard Monitor:
http://www.pcworld.com/downloads/file_description/0,fid,7309,tk,urx,00.asp
This program reports your PC's temperature and even sounds an alarm
when the internal heat reaches a preset danger level. Another option
is Podien's $15 CPUCool utility (a free trial version is available):
http://www.pcworld.com/downloads/file_description/0,fid,22842,tk,hsx,tk,urx,00.asp
Before you open your computer and start mucking around with its
innards, keep some safety tips in mind:
Unplug the power cord (at both ends) before opening your PC. For
anything other than installing drives, lay your PC on its side, with
the motherboard at the bottom. When you remove a part, loosen all of
the screws before you remove any of them. And when installing a
device, insert all of the screws halfway before fully tightening any.
When you're done, plug in the power cord and turn on your PC. If it
works, turn the system off, unplug the power cord, close the case, and
then plug in the power cord again.
Find the Noisemakers
Replacing every potentially noisy component in your PC is a waste of
time and money, so instead start with the loudest offender. If the
machine is still too noisy after you make your first change, replace
the next-noisiest component.
To identify the source of noise, use the ever-popular Cardboard Tube
Test. Hold one end of a cardboard tube from an empty paper towel roll
to your ear, and hold the other end near various drives, fans, and
other devices inside your PC's case to determine the loudest ones.
If this leaves you unsure, try the Elimination Test: Turn fans and
hard drives off and on to see which are the loudest. (There's no harm
in operating an open computer without fans for a few seconds.) To
silence a fan or hard drive (the one major noisemaker that isn't a
fan), unplug its power (make certain that the PC is unplugged first).
Fans are usually connected through tiny, three-hole plugs on the
motherboard; hard drives by larger, four-prong connectors from the
power supply. Plug the PC's power cord back in, turn it on, and listen
without using the cardboard tube.
Of course, this technique won't work with the power supply's fan,
which can't be unplugged. With your PC turned off but plugged in,
insert a small wooden stick between the fan's blades, and hold it
there while you turn the PC on. If the machine remains as quiet as a
weeknight in Yuba City, you've found your peace-disturber.
Your power supply may well be the first noise source you'll want to
replace, since its fan is often the loudest thing in the case. Look
for a replacement power supply that provides at least as much wattage
as your current one. Note, though, that while a supply that delivers
more watts gives you power to upgrade your PC's equipment, it also
costs more and might be noisier than a less-powerful model.
In my test PC, I tried Seasonic's 330-watt S12-330 power supply, which
costs about $60 online:
http://pcworld.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php/masterid=8735524/tk=urx
The S12-330's 120mm fan spins more slowly and quietly than the 80mm
fans found in most power supplies. The product even provides an
adapter that lets you lower the speed of your system's case and CPU
fans.
If the Seasonic isn't quiet enough for you, try Antec's 500-watt
Phantom 500 it is absolutely silent--most of the time. The device is
also very big, very heavy, and (at about $160 online) very expensive:
http://pcworld.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php?masterid=8760870/tk=urx
The Phantom's body acts as a heat sink to keep the box's interior
cool, and the fan kicks in only when the heat rises above a
user-defined level. Still, for many people complete quiet most of the
time is worse than slightly noisy performance all of the time. It is
much easier to ignore a constant noise than one that turns off and on
at seemingly random times.
Installing a new power supply is easy: Unplug the motherboard and
drives from the existing power supply, unscrew and remove the device,
insert the new power supply, tighten its holding screws, and then plug
everything back into it. Seasonic and Antec include installation
instructions, but not all power-supply vendors do.
If your PC has a case fan--one screwed onto the case rather than
attached to the CPU, power supply, or other device--you may want to
replace it with a less-noisy model. My test PC's 92mm case fan was its
loudest component. The best solution would be to swap in a bigger fan,
but that's tricky. Your case probably doesn't have a hole for a 120mm
fan. Still, using a higher-quality (and perhaps slower) fan should
reduce your system's noise level.
Nexus makes quiet case fans in various sizes, each of them priced
below $20. The fans lack installation instructions, but replacing a
fan is simple: Just unplug the old fan's power cord, remove it, and
then install and plug in the replacement.
Nexus's 92mm Real Silent case fan worked fine in my test system:
http://www.nexustek.nl/92mmcasefan.htm
I was a little worried because, according to my motherboard-specific
monitoring program, it spins at about half the rate of my old fan. But
the slower turning speed has not caused the PC's temperature to rise.
Most hard drives don't have fans, but they still make plenty of noise
when they spin. However, many new models make less noise, as they use
fluid dynamic bearings in place of ball bearings. So if you want a
quieter PC environment, now may be a good time to upgrade your hard
drive.
A Hard-Drive Muffler
Alternatively, you could place your current drive in a soundproof box
that fits in a 5.25-inch bay (the kind you'd normally use for a CD or
DVD drive). I recommend the Nexus Drive-A-Way, which costs about $60
(I looked at an early production unit before the company had settled
on a price):
http://www.nexustek.nl/driveaway.htm
I installed the Drive-A-Way with only minor problems--and before I
discovered the instructions hidden on the bottom of the box. The
device silenced my drive almost completely.
The most cost-effective CPU coolers are a small heat sink and a cheap,
loud fan. For a little more money, you can buy something less raucous.
But be warned: Replacing a CPU cooler isn't easy.
Part of the problem is sheer size: Quiet CPU coolers can be huge, with
towering heat sinks that look like model skyscrapers attached to fans
the size of portable disc players. You have to make sure the new
cooler will fit your motherboard and CPU socket. You may know what
processor you have, but some CPUs support more than one socket type.
Check your computer or motherboard documentation--or the
manufacturer's Web site--for the information you'll need.
Once you find the right cooler, you have to attach it. Start by
removing the old cooler. It's probably clipped onto the socket in ways
you can't see and in places where your fingers barely fit. Next, wipe
the thermal paste (also called thermal grease) off the top of the CPU.
Now apply a thin layer of paste (your cooler probably comes with a
tube of the stuff). Finally, insert the new cooler into those clips
your fingers can barely reach. Easy, right?
For Socket 478 motherboards, I recommend Arctic Cooling's reasonably
compact Freezer 4:
http://www.arctic-cooling.com/cpu2.php?idx=9&disc=
Though the device is not as quiet as some of the giant alternatives,
it's more likely to fit in your PC, and it costs only about $30
online. (Arctic Cooling sells similar coolers for other sockets.)
If changing your PC's CPU cooler sounds too daunting, don't even
consider replacing the tiny fan that's probably attached to your
graphics card. Such fans aren't particularly loud, and fiddling with
the surface of a graphics card is perilous.
I also advise against hassling with case insulation. The foam-rubber
material attaches to the inside of your case to muffle sound, but this
chore is a lot of work for a very minor difference.
For more tips, plus component reviews, visit PC World's Upgrade
Center:
http://www.pcworld.com/resource/infocenter/0,ctrid,9,ic,UpgradeCenter,tk,urx,00.asp
* Keep Your Backup Drive Off When It's Not in Use *
External hard drives make great backups: They're much easier to work
with than DVDs, and they hold far more data. You may be tempted to
leave these drives on continuously; but if you do, anything that
damages your original files could also destroy the backup. For better
protection--regardless of the backup program you use--keep the backup
drive turned off or unplugged when you're not using it, and turn it on
or plug it in only when you need to back up. Better yet, hide the
drive when you unplug it. That way, burglars won't deprive you of your
PC and your backup drive.
Send your tips and questions to:
answer*pcworld.com
Read Lincoln Spector's regularly published "Answer Line" columns:
http://www.pcworld.com/resource/columnist/0,colid,1,tk,ur,00.asp
===
"In a world where more than 10 million americans live with cancer -- we believe unity is strength, knowledge is power, and attitude is everything!"
-- Livestrong, by Lance Armstrong